Day 5 - Getting Into the Swing of Things

Our Route: Montague – Ludington

Departed:	May 21, '15, 09:23AM
Starts in:	Montague, MI, US
Distance:	48.6 mi
Elevation:	+ 1838 / - 1678 ft
Max Grade	7.7 %
Avg. Grade	0.3 %

Total Duration:	07:57:22
Moving Time:	03:54:17

Max Speed:	32.5 mph
Avg. Speed:	12.4 mph

Highlights

After conquering our longest day without bonking I began to believe I could actually make this whole trip. For a while there it seemed a little doubtful. Will says I just have to staying below my threshold and think of this as a month-long “Neal” ride. Neal, although a fast rider, leads my favorite weekly moderate ride to interesting places. And this is certainly a ride to interesting places.

Will and Jim along the Montague - Hart trail

Montague - Hart Trail

We started the day riding north along the Montague – Hart bike trail finding interesting views of western Michigan farm country and small town life as we went. Clearly the railroad MADE these towns. The feed stores, grain elevators, and other smaller business once thrived on the commerce the iron horse brought. Now, however, they’re seeking new sources of commerce and finding some in “active tourists” like us. Cindy, our desk clerk at the Weathervane in Montague said that yes, they get lots of cyclists through there as they sit right on the path. Several nice restaurants in town attest to the cycle traffic. So great to see that what’s good for us is good for local business. Now if we could just get more municipalities to see it that way.

While the bike trail was well maintained and easily navigated, like all former rail lines it was exceedingly flat and mostly straight. That might sound great a first but after eight, ten miles or so you welcome a little diversity. Your bones just get weary of being on the bike. So when we finally existed the path just south of Pentwater it was with a welcome sense of relief. We were also heading back westward toward our beloved lake.  

The wide but shallow Pentwater Lake from the east

Western Shore Towns are Different from Eastern Ones

Cities and towns like Pentwater on this western shore of Lake Michigan seem to me to have a different feel, a different geography from those on the eastern shore. Western shore towns grew up along fast moving rivers cut through hard stone or granite. Here on the eastern shore with its sandy base, the rivers and even the look of the land is different. Rivers flow slowly, forming wide shallow lakes at their mouths. Harbors are large and wide, taking a looooong time to ride around you find a narrow enough place for a bridge. On the western shore we have lots of narrow deep ravines that guide the rivers to the lakes. Here the land is swampy. Left in its natural state it develops wonderfully diverse wetlands. Several towns we rode through, like Muskegon on day three, have developed great bike trail / boardwalks along the edges of these harbors over the wetlands. They make a marvelous contrast to the congestion and industry of the ports. 

Ed and Will riding the Ludington Power embankment

Ludington Power Plant

After leaving the cute little beach town of Pentwater we head north again along the lake toward Ludington. On the way we ride over an embankment that houses the Ludington Pumped Storage Power Plant. Don’t understand all the engineering, but the concept is that they pull water out of Lake Michigan at night when electrical demand is low and then generate power by driving it back down through HUGE turbines during the day. In any event it makes an impressive sight. Of course it raised questions in my mind about the

Ludington Power hydro-electric turbines

value of destroying a large area of dune, creating an unnatural impact on the surrounding natural area and aquatic life all to create power. But, without that power I would not be writing you now. I could not carry on my life as I know it. Furthermore, atop the huge mound, above the water storage area runs an equally large wind farm. No indication of how much power that generated, but it looked impressive too. 

The Badger Brings a Friend

At Ludington we met up with Robb who’d come to join us for Stages 2 and 3 of the trip over to

The Badger leaving Manitowoc, WI

Green Bay by riding the historic Badger car Ferry over from Manitowoc. While on board Robb met Chelsea, a young woman riding her bike from Oregon to New York. Chelsea spent that night and the next morning entertaining us with stories of the last 5 weeks on the road. Here we had been thinking riding a month around the lake was great stuff only to be put to shame by an ever more adventurous undertaking. Best of luck to you Chelsea as you continue on the next 4 -5 weeks.

Robb and Chelsea just off the Badger

Sampler from Stage 1 - Total 380 Miles

We've now completed Stage 1, the most difficult in terms of miles per day. 

Only 1,000 more miles to go

But, even long, cold days could not diminish our enjoyment of Lake Michigan's eastern shore

Here's an simplified overview of Stage 1. Because we tended to hug the
lake shore where ever we could, we picked up a few more miles
than this graph would indicate. The hills, however, are not diminished

Day 3  St. Joseph - Holland: 65 miles

Day 4   Holland - Montague: 75 miles

Day 5  Montague - Ludington: 49 miles

Day 6 Ludington - Watervale: 59 miles

Highlights

In retrospect we have come to realize that an average of over 63 miles a day for six days on our first stage was a bit of an over reach. Thankfully Jim and Ed alternated driving the support van, carrying our gear. Day three, a cold, windy shock after our perfect day two, presented the biggest challenge. As typical for most multi-day adventures, on day three my body wanted a break NOT more work. It resisted the effort.  Thankfully, Ed helped remind us to ease up a bit, take it a little slower, and arrive a little later thereby avoiding the bonks. Once I got through day three, once I disciplined myself to take it easy, I overcame that initial resistance. Each day got a little easier, even the 75 mile day. Even yesterday with its two long, steep hills. Going slowly meant we got in late each night. Plenty of day light this time of year, but after cleaning up and eating there was no time left for communicating. Sorry, I've been out of touch.

Will try here to give a little update on the highlights. So much to take in. So much we just passed by. This part of the trip will have to be termed a "sampler" as we just didn't have time to delve into anything too deeply. I'll deal with day 3 and day 4 here and leave 5 and 6 for later.

St. Joseph - Holland: Day 3

Ranger Station at Covert County Park - a welcome, warm
haven on a very cold day.

 Given the weather we decided to just ride, ride, ride. Little time or energy for stopping long to see the sights. Covert County park, however, combined both a much needed rest, break from the wind, dune exploration and an unexpected meeting. Katelynn, the 24/7 park ranger, welcomed us warmly directed us to the facilities and the stairway up and over the dune. Here is where I came to truly appreciate the height, magnitude and protective properties of these unique geological structures. Their simultaneously huge and magical. I have a hard time comprehending. (To see a photo of Katelynn, check out our "Lovely People We've Met" page in the right column).

 After a warming stop in South Haven we ride on into more wind eventually learning our lesson to take it slow. We're hoping to cut off a few miles in Saugatuck by taking the Chain Ferry but to no avail. CLOSED DUE TO HIGH WIND read the sign. More back tracking, more wind, more miles getting really tired. 

As we enter Holland Kerry meets us and guides us through the chaotic recent construction to his lovely home along the river. I'd met Kerry as I'd met Christine through a 

network of folks working on developing an around Lake

Michigan bicycle route. As we talked about our passed cycling adventures we unexpectedly discovered that Kerry and his wife Mary, Jim and I had all been on a two-week bike tour of England in ... 1979!!!  Thirty-six years ago and here we were sitting in their kitchen in Holland. What a small world. Thanks Kerry and Mary for your gracious hospitality, the loan of a pair of cold weather gloves and a FANTASTIC breakfast recommendation. (Again, you can see a nice photo of Kerry & Mary in our "Lovely People We've Met" page).

Holland - Montague: Day 4

Will and Jim navigating by USBR 35

The day dawns even colder but, thankfully, less windy. We face a 75 mile ride today. I'm feeling tired and a bit discouraged, but determined to give it a go. We follow Ed's advise again and take it slow, stopping only briefly. By the end of the day we're all feeling stronger, tired, but stronger. Along the way we benefit from the great work the state and local bike planners have done by constructing a US bike route detour around the incredibly busy Grand Haven bridge. While the signage is not what we'd like, we're able to navigate through the morass and come out the other side with a sense of adventure.

We do manage to visit both Kirk County Park and PF Hofmaster State Park where we see some beautiful dunes close up, land earn about their construction and ecology. Jim gets to climb the dune after we switch off riders. We ride on, thankfully protected from today's wind by these ancient giants along the coast. I begin to get a sense and a feel of them.

A quick hot dog lunch precedes a quiet, boardwalk ride around the quiet wetlands in Muskegon's harbor. Here industry mixes with nature in wide variety - all bit mind boggling. But the town seems like its regaining life because of its focus on "active tourism."

We continue on, headed back west to the lake ride north again along the shore. Taking in the beautiful inlets, shallow lakes and forested dunes. A long, but a good day ends with a comfortable welcome in Montague.

I MADE IT!

Check out all the Lovely People We've Met Along the Way

I met Christine through my effort to reach out to the folks who are working on designed a signed
bike route encircling Lake Michigan. She and Ken met us at the Indiana Dunes State Park
to get some photos and create a press release they'll use to help promote bicycle tourism in Indiana

One of our great joys of the trip is meeting interesting, generous and helpful folks everywhere we go. We've established a routine, someone asks where we're from, comments about our Evanston Bike Club jerseys or our bikes we give them a trip card and explain what we're up to. A short questions usually becomes a longer conversation full of lots of fun stories of biking, traveling, lakes, food, weather or any number of topics. We try to get their picture and their names to share. Check out the page in the right column "Lovely Folks We've Met" to see these and sometimes a short statement of their story.

Days 1.3 , 1.4, & 1.5 Long and Cold

Our three day Route: St. Joseph to Holland to Montague to Ludington

Beautiful sunny fourth day overlooking THE LAKE at Kirk County Park

Our one-day summer morphed back into winter overnight in St. Joseph

Where day two was perfect, day three tried to compensate. Our one-day summer disappeared as winter returned. A heavy northwest wind in from the lake dropped the temperature down into the 40s making these long rides even tougher.  Days four and five got a lot better as the sun came out, but the days were still long. Yet despite the physical struggle, we enjoyed experiencing the unique, Michigan dune environment with its sky-high grass and tree covered piles of fine, yellow sand. While I've seen small and scattered dunes before along the lake's western shore I'd never really understood the magnitude of these ubiqutious giants. Where I come from hills are made of rock and dirt. Here they're made of sand. Different feel, different look. At intervals these piles give way to large rivers and in-land lakes all along the western shore. St. Joseph/Benton Harbor, South Haven, Saugatuck, Holland, Grand Haven … on and on it goes. So beautiful. So amazing. At PJ Hoffmaster State Park we got a little education about dunes and dune formation. At Covert County Park, Kirk County Park we got to see it up close. 

Met some lovely folks along the way. Everyone wishing us well on our journey. See our separate page: Lovely People We Have Met for a looks at their photos and a little of their stories.

Should have time to post a bit more this weekend as we have two days off the bike. Lots to think about and ponder.

Day 1.2 - PERFECT

Today's Route: Portage, IN - St. Joseph, MI

Finally got back to the shore at Indiana Dunes State Park

A Tail Wind Day full of sunshine through surprising Indian then up the east cost of Lake Michigan to Michigan City, New Buffalo and St. Joseph

Departed:	May 18, '15, 09:24AM
Starts in:	Portage, IN, US
Distance:	64.6 mi
Elevation:	+ 1681 / - 1676 ft
Max Grade	6.3 %
Avg. Grade	0.1 %

Total Duration:	07:45:56
Moving Time:	04:37:47

Max Speed:	23.9 mph
Avg. Speed:	14.0 mph

Highlights

Its hard to put into words how absolutely perfect this day was. Everything: the temperature, the sunshine,  the tail wind, the people, the Dunes, THE LAKE, the tail wind, the view of Chicago from the Dunes, the route on various Lake Shore Drives, the tail wind, the food.  And oh did I mention the tail wind? For those of you who don't ride a bike long distances, a tail wind is a gift from the gods. It makes your riding easy, almost like having a sail attached to your bike. A long 65 mile day becomes a "breeze." Well not quite, you still have to work at it, but it makes the whole day much more pleasant and it turned our great day into a perfect one.

 After a short 15 mile ride through the last of Indian's Duneland trail we finally get back to Lake Michigan at Indiana Dunes State Park. Several months ago I'd gotten in touch with a group of people who are working on getting a US Bike Route designated and signed for the entire circle around the lake. One member, Christine Livingston the Assistant Director for Indiana Dunes Tourism, asked if we won't mind being interviewed while at the Dunes. Perfect day for it and in we rode. Stay tuned for some press releases and maybe a local news article. But here are a few of the great shots they took while we were there.

 From there we proceeded east to the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore for a look at some 1936 Century of Progress Homes that had been moved there by barge after the fair ended. Strange to see a pink Floridaesque building right there on the south shore of The Lake.

We all agreed, the most surprising thing of the day was how BEAUTIFUL and bike friendly Indiana was. Months ago we decided to do a counter clock-wise rotation of THE LAKE because we wanted to get what we thought would be an industrial waste land out of the way first. How WRONG we were. This is so lovely! As we only got to sample a little, Will and I are already planning a return trip - say offering a four day self-supported Evanston Bike Club ride down here to see the Dunes, travel up the Michigan coast a way, with the possibility of a train ride back on the South Shore Line. Now that's a great dream too.

Turning the corner and crossing from Indiana into Michigan we're moving northeast and the warm tail wind takes on a light coolness as it comes across the lake before it hits us. Did I say PERFECT or what!!

The rest of the day proceeded in kind as we got blown from one lakeside town to another each with their stately lake side homes, picturesque harbors and oh so welcoming while sand beaches. If ever you wanted to drop say a million or two on a house I guess this would be a great place to do it, especially if the weather were always as today.

My Seven of Hearts thinks it would like to stay at the beach all day

Jim and Will waving to the conductor of a Shore Shore Line Freight

Entering Indiana Dunes National Lake Shore

Along Beverly Shores

One of many Lake Shore Drives, this just outside New Buffalo

Michiana Rd., a SMALL street that forms the State Line

Day 1.1 Complete

Today's Route: Wilmette, IL - Portage, IN

Except for the wonderful 18 mile Lakefront trail, we stayed away for
the lake to avoid congestion and industrialization along the south shore

Threatening Thunderstorms never developed. Instead we road through fog along the lakefront and then summer-like sunshine to Indiana's miles and miles of beautiful bike paths.

Departed:	May 17, '15, 07:14AM
Starts in:	Wilmette, IL, US
Distance:	67.6 mi
Elevation:	+ 1674 / - 1586 ft
Max Grade	5.0 %
Avg. Grade	0.1 %

Total Duration:	09:17:20
Moving Time:	05:35:15

Max Speed:	18.0 mph
Avg. Speed:	12.1 mph

East end of Navy Pier looking back to the fog-encased Chicago Skyline

Highlights

We worried all week about the weather. Really didn't want to start this grand adventure by riding in our support van because of dangerous thunderstorms. Fortunately everyone's prayers and concerns paid off - we had nice foggy weather until just past the Loop. When the sun did come out it did so instantaneously completely foggy up our glasses with the change in temperature. Strangest phenomena of the day. 

In front of Buckingham Fountain whose horses represent the Great Lakes

Looking back at the "Fog that Ate Chicago"

Today we could ride along THE LAKE for only the 18 mile Lakefront path. The rest of our route south is too congested and industrialized to travel it comfortably by bike and still stay by the water. After slowly navigating through two are three running races we made it to the beautiful South Shore Cultural center and then end of the path. I anticipated several miles of busy, rather unpleasant riding, but found instead wide bike lanes, little traffic, interesting neighborhoods, and a picturesque iron bridge. Most of this was within sight of the Sky Way. It felt like we had found a secret, passage. Thanks to all the Evanston Bike Club people who traveled this way before and passed on their routes and cue sheets.

My favorite experience of the day - catching the new Wolf Lake trail in Hammond which took us through some restored prairies and wetlands and then eventually over the lake itself on a 2014 boardwalk bridge. A bit of the bio-diverse richness right here in the heart of freeways and industry.

After lunch in Hammond we picked up the Erie Lackawanna trail taking us to the southeast and away from Gary and its steel miles. Unto beautiful reclaimed rights of way we road the rest of the day. South east was also the wind direction, so the riding became a bit of a slough until we turned directly east on the Oak Savannah trail. It feelt like our own Middle Fork Savannah in Lake Forest except the path is paved - YEA and the vegetation a bit more over grown - SAD. But, the riding was wonderful as we pass wetlands, parks and even lily-ponded lakes in the town of Hobart. There we met up with Jim who had driven the van to our destination in Portage and back tracked just to meet us - well really - to a get a nice hot fudge sundae.

We end the evening with a fabulous fish dinner in, of all place, a bait shop. A beautiful, red sunset fore tells of what should be some glorious bike-riding weather tomorrow.

Who knew that Northwest Indiana could have such great biking terrain? I guess our EBC folks have been telling us all along - I just didn't listen. Will certain come back to explore some more.

Inside the magnificent South Shore Cultural Center

Yes, we are doing the Lake Michigan Circle Tour - one of our own making

Crossing the Calumet River, through the industrialized south shore

Oak Savannah trail some of which is contained in the National Park

Lake George coming in to Hobart, IN

Our dinner stop - really has a fine fish restaurant inside

My favorite part of the day - riding the Wolf Lake path and boardwalk
in Hammond, IN

Thanks for a Great Send Off

Saying Goodbye to a few of the Evanston Bike Club folks before their Saturday rides

THE DAY has arrived.  Headed out the door in an hour or so, determined to ride our two wheeled steeds the 1,400 miles or so around this Great Lake of Michigan. Planning, errand running, preparing have occupied my mind for weeks. Now its time to just GO and experience. Northing more to be done except to say a great big THANKS to all those who have wished us well and sent us off either in person, by phone, e-mail or text. So great to know you're pulling for us, hoping and praying for good weather. All that will push us on our way. Hope to have some great stories for you from the road.

A God Speed Farewell at Peg's

Our Stage 1 Support Crew