Days 1.3 , 1.4, & 1.5 Long and Cold

Our three day Route: St. Joseph to Holland to Montague to Ludington

Beautiful sunny fourth day overlooking THE LAKE at Kirk County Park

Our one-day summer morphed back into winter overnight in St. Joseph

Where day two was perfect, day three tried to compensate. Our one-day summer disappeared as winter returned. A heavy northwest wind in from the lake dropped the temperature down into the 40s making these long rides even tougher.  Days four and five got a lot better as the sun came out, but the days were still long. Yet despite the physical struggle, we enjoyed experiencing the unique, Michigan dune environment with its sky-high grass and tree covered piles of fine, yellow sand. While I've seen small and scattered dunes before along the lake's western shore I'd never really understood the magnitude of these ubiqutious giants. Where I come from hills are made of rock and dirt. Here they're made of sand. Different feel, different look. At intervals these piles give way to large rivers and in-land lakes all along the western shore. St. Joseph/Benton Harbor, South Haven, Saugatuck, Holland, Grand Haven … on and on it goes. So beautiful. So amazing. At PJ Hoffmaster State Park we got a little education about dunes and dune formation. At Covert County Park, Kirk County Park we got to see it up close. 

Met some lovely folks along the way. Everyone wishing us well on our journey. See our separate page: Lovely People We Have Met for a looks at their photos and a little of their stories.

Should have time to post a bit more this weekend as we have two days off the bike. Lots to think about and ponder.

Day 1.2 - PERFECT

Today's Route: Portage, IN - St. Joseph, MI

Finally got back to the shore at Indiana Dunes State Park

A Tail Wind Day full of sunshine through surprising Indian then up the east cost of Lake Michigan to Michigan City, New Buffalo and St. Joseph

Departed:	May 18, '15, 09:24AM
Starts in:	Portage, IN, US
Distance:	64.6 mi
Elevation:	+ 1681 / - 1676 ft
Max Grade	6.3 %
Avg. Grade	0.1 %

Total Duration:	07:45:56
Moving Time:	04:37:47

Max Speed:	23.9 mph
Avg. Speed:	14.0 mph

Highlights

Its hard to put into words how absolutely perfect this day was. Everything: the temperature, the sunshine,  the tail wind, the people, the Dunes, THE LAKE, the tail wind, the view of Chicago from the Dunes, the route on various Lake Shore Drives, the tail wind, the food.  And oh did I mention the tail wind? For those of you who don't ride a bike long distances, a tail wind is a gift from the gods. It makes your riding easy, almost like having a sail attached to your bike. A long 65 mile day becomes a "breeze." Well not quite, you still have to work at it, but it makes the whole day much more pleasant and it turned our great day into a perfect one.

 After a short 15 mile ride through the last of Indian's Duneland trail we finally get back to Lake Michigan at Indiana Dunes State Park. Several months ago I'd gotten in touch with a group of people who are working on getting a US Bike Route designated and signed for the entire circle around the lake. One member, Christine Livingston the Assistant Director for Indiana Dunes Tourism, asked if we won't mind being interviewed while at the Dunes. Perfect day for it and in we rode. Stay tuned for some press releases and maybe a local news article. But here are a few of the great shots they took while we were there.

 From there we proceeded east to the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore for a look at some 1936 Century of Progress Homes that had been moved there by barge after the fair ended. Strange to see a pink Floridaesque building right there on the south shore of The Lake.

We all agreed, the most surprising thing of the day was how BEAUTIFUL and bike friendly Indiana was. Months ago we decided to do a counter clock-wise rotation of THE LAKE because we wanted to get what we thought would be an industrial waste land out of the way first. How WRONG we were. This is so lovely! As we only got to sample a little, Will and I are already planning a return trip - say offering a four day self-supported Evanston Bike Club ride down here to see the Dunes, travel up the Michigan coast a way, with the possibility of a train ride back on the South Shore Line. Now that's a great dream too.

Turning the corner and crossing from Indiana into Michigan we're moving northeast and the warm tail wind takes on a light coolness as it comes across the lake before it hits us. Did I say PERFECT or what!!

The rest of the day proceeded in kind as we got blown from one lakeside town to another each with their stately lake side homes, picturesque harbors and oh so welcoming while sand beaches. If ever you wanted to drop say a million or two on a house I guess this would be a great place to do it, especially if the weather were always as today.

My Seven of Hearts thinks it would like to stay at the beach all day

Jim and Will waving to the conductor of a Shore Shore Line Freight

Entering Indiana Dunes National Lake Shore

Along Beverly Shores

One of many Lake Shore Drives, this just outside New Buffalo

Michiana Rd., a SMALL street that forms the State Line

Day 1.1 Complete

Today's Route: Wilmette, IL - Portage, IN

Except for the wonderful 18 mile Lakefront trail, we stayed away for
the lake to avoid congestion and industrialization along the south shore

Threatening Thunderstorms never developed. Instead we road through fog along the lakefront and then summer-like sunshine to Indiana's miles and miles of beautiful bike paths.

Departed:	May 17, '15, 07:14AM
Starts in:	Wilmette, IL, US
Distance:	67.6 mi
Elevation:	+ 1674 / - 1586 ft
Max Grade	5.0 %
Avg. Grade	0.1 %

Total Duration:	09:17:20
Moving Time:	05:35:15

Max Speed:	18.0 mph
Avg. Speed:	12.1 mph

East end of Navy Pier looking back to the fog-encased Chicago Skyline

Highlights

We worried all week about the weather. Really didn't want to start this grand adventure by riding in our support van because of dangerous thunderstorms. Fortunately everyone's prayers and concerns paid off - we had nice foggy weather until just past the Loop. When the sun did come out it did so instantaneously completely foggy up our glasses with the change in temperature. Strangest phenomena of the day. 

In front of Buckingham Fountain whose horses represent the Great Lakes

Looking back at the "Fog that Ate Chicago"

Today we could ride along THE LAKE for only the 18 mile Lakefront path. The rest of our route south is too congested and industrialized to travel it comfortably by bike and still stay by the water. After slowly navigating through two are three running races we made it to the beautiful South Shore Cultural center and then end of the path. I anticipated several miles of busy, rather unpleasant riding, but found instead wide bike lanes, little traffic, interesting neighborhoods, and a picturesque iron bridge. Most of this was within sight of the Sky Way. It felt like we had found a secret, passage. Thanks to all the Evanston Bike Club people who traveled this way before and passed on their routes and cue sheets.

My favorite experience of the day - catching the new Wolf Lake trail in Hammond which took us through some restored prairies and wetlands and then eventually over the lake itself on a 2014 boardwalk bridge. A bit of the bio-diverse richness right here in the heart of freeways and industry.

After lunch in Hammond we picked up the Erie Lackawanna trail taking us to the southeast and away from Gary and its steel miles. Unto beautiful reclaimed rights of way we road the rest of the day. South east was also the wind direction, so the riding became a bit of a slough until we turned directly east on the Oak Savannah trail. It feelt like our own Middle Fork Savannah in Lake Forest except the path is paved - YEA and the vegetation a bit more over grown - SAD. But, the riding was wonderful as we pass wetlands, parks and even lily-ponded lakes in the town of Hobart. There we met up with Jim who had driven the van to our destination in Portage and back tracked just to meet us - well really - to a get a nice hot fudge sundae.

We end the evening with a fabulous fish dinner in, of all place, a bait shop. A beautiful, red sunset fore tells of what should be some glorious bike-riding weather tomorrow.

Who knew that Northwest Indiana could have such great biking terrain? I guess our EBC folks have been telling us all along - I just didn't listen. Will certain come back to explore some more.

Inside the magnificent South Shore Cultural Center

Yes, we are doing the Lake Michigan Circle Tour - one of our own making

Crossing the Calumet River, through the industrialized south shore

Oak Savannah trail some of which is contained in the National Park

Lake George coming in to Hobart, IN

Our dinner stop - really has a fine fish restaurant inside

My favorite part of the day - riding the Wolf Lake path and boardwalk
in Hammond, IN

Thanks for a Great Send Off

Saying Goodbye to a few of the Evanston Bike Club folks before their Saturday rides

THE DAY has arrived.  Headed out the door in an hour or so, determined to ride our two wheeled steeds the 1,400 miles or so around this Great Lake of Michigan. Planning, errand running, preparing have occupied my mind for weeks. Now its time to just GO and experience. Northing more to be done except to say a great big THANKS to all those who have wished us well and sent us off either in person, by phone, e-mail or text. So great to know you're pulling for us, hoping and praying for good weather. All that will push us on our way. Hope to have some great stories for you from the road.

A God Speed Farewell at Peg's

Our Stage 1 Support Crew

Tomorrow we GO!

Almost ready to roll. Will and Suzie with our SEVEN 7 CYCLE bikes and traveling gear

After a year of dreaming and probably at least six months of active planning the day of departure arrives tomorrow. Reservations made. Bike tuned and cleaned. Clothes washed. Routes planned, printed and downloaded. Panniers, rack and fenders tested. Bags packed. Body trained. Papers stopped. Mail held. Bills paid. Dog boarded. Weather consulted, consulted, consulted …

I guess its time to get this show on the road. As my friend Barbara implied "Aren't you guys gone yet?"

Someone asked me the other day, "What are you most worried about?" The answer was simple: the weather - 40º and rain, thunderstorms, or 30º and snow. I've ridden in the rain and survived, but lightening can be dangerous, snow can be slippery. So, let's keep that at bay. The question though made me ask myself "What am I looking forward to?" The answer to that is far more complex. As I anticipate the leaving then, let me muse a bit on that question. 

What am I Looking Forward To?

• Time on the open road - just the act of riding, of going
• Being in the moment without other responsibilities
• Looking around and marveling at THE LAKE multiple times a day, for hours at a time, in all kinds of weather
• Experiencing the reality undying all those maps - learning what places feel like
• Meeting lots of people along the way and learning a little of their stories, seeing THE LAKE through their eyes
• Encountering history. Encountering nature. 
• Creating my own story of Lake Michigan, its history, its present, its natures, its people
• Sharing that story as best I can
• Enjoying my riding companions, comparing our perspectives and our journey, learning from each other
• Getting stronger as the days go by

And Away We Go!  -- Next stop - Portage, Indiana

My BIKE - The Seven of Hearts

Time to talk about the most important thing I’m taking on this grand adventure – my bike. As I say in my Short Answers to Frequently Asked Questions, both Will and I will be riding steel-framed bikes custom designed and built by SEVEN 7 CYCLES of Massachusetts.

The Seven of Hearts standing nice and pretty and ready to go outside the Velosmith Bicycle Studio

Why a New, Custom Bike?

While planning my Door County trip last May I realized that if I was truly committed to cycle touring it was time to invest in a new, lighter-weight, 21st century equipped vehicle. True, my 35-year-old Proteus would serve me well on that relatively flat trip, but I'd need more gears and something lighter to get up the steeper stuff I dreamed of. I learned my lesson all those years ago: I'm SHORT and even these days, small, highly technical bikes don't grow on trees. I'd need another custom bike.

Luckily, just up the block Velosmith Bicycle Studio specializes in designing bikes for customers like me. I stopped in to talk to Tony Bustamante about getting a new steed and ended up learning so much about modern materials, fit, building techniques, and components that my head seemed to burst. In addition to getting a new bike, I came away with a deeper understanding about what makes it uniquely suited to both my body and my riding purpose. Thanks Tony for a great and on-going bicycle education.

Purpose Drives the Design

Jim and Will with their "Big Green Machines"
Great for around town. Not really suitable for riding around THE LAKE

To be at all useful a bike must not only fit you well but also suit your purpose. A bike you'd ride to the beach or to run errands is not a bike you' take around THE LAKE. Bikes you'd use for a triathlon, at the velodrome, off road, or in a road race, none of these would be suitable either. I suppose people have been known to try, but they certainly haven't been comfortable. To carry me and my stuff around THE LAKE, my bike needed to accommodate a rack and fenders, be comfortable for riding all day, day after day and be stable uphill, downhill and in the corners. I would need something with a longer than average wheelbase to distribute the added weight to the front and give my foot room to clear my panniers. It would inevitably be less agile and responsive, but that was a trade-off I was willing to make.

The Fit (Geometry)

According to Tony, designing the geometry of a frame involves a lot more than making sure the rider can stand over the top tube. If you're planning to ride the thing thousands of miles a year, it has to first fit your body in all kinds of biomechanical ways. The goal: to prevent injury, ensure comfort and transfer the rider's power efficiently to the vehicle. The height has to be right of course, but also the reach from saddle to handle bar should be comfortable, the legs aligned with the pedals. Then too the geometry needs to support the rider's desired "ride personality" and intended purpose - in my case, stable handling for light-weight touring. All these conceptual elements then need to be magically translated into a three-dimensional "living" frame. I've come to see that it takes a combination of science, art and bicycle passion to do so.

Some of the dimensions of my bike as drawn by Tony

The Material (Steel Tubing)

I knew from the beginning that I wanted another steel-framed bike. I love both the technology and history of steel bikes as well as the smoothness of their ride. But also, if something happens to a steel frame when you're out on the road, you can usually find someone out there to fix it. Titanium is strong and much lighter, but tricky to fix. Carbon fiber is even lighter, much harder to fix and, more importantly, not flexible enough to accommodate a rack. So for me, the up front choice of steel was simple.

Little did I know, but the backroom choice of which type of steel and what thickness of tubing to use for which parts of my bike was anything but simple. From what Tony tells me, my bike, with its eight steel parts (top tube, seat tube, down tube, head tube, seat stays and chain stays), incorporates variable tube thicknesses, diameters and even multiple manufactures.  This is one of the major benefits of having SEVEN build my bike. Unique in the world of custom bike builders, SEVEN has the ability to select just the right tube for its individual job, combining materials from several tubing producers in one frame. Their choice of manufacturer and specification for each tube was driven by a combination of my weight, intended use and preference for stability and comfort. They would have chosen something completely different if I'd wanted a firm, race quality ride, with sharp steering and agility. Frankly, it all sounds a bit like alchemy to me.

Components

For my non-biker friends, components are all the things on a bike other than the pieces that make up the frame. There are LOTS of these and while each needed its own decision, some are certainly more significant than others. Some, like the rack and fenders which I need for touring, impacted the actual frame design. Others, like wanting really low gears and integrated shifting, would significantly impact my riding experience. For my biker friends, I choose the Shimano Ultra 6800 11 speed mechanical group, hand built wheels by Velosmith and a Chris King headset. I also picked out a carbon fiber front fork, which some would argue is part of the frame but technically its not. I know I'm running a bit of an on-road breakage risk with this, but, couldn't resist its lighter weight and smoother ride.

The Final Product

All those choices, all those big and little decisions, all those millimeter-sized adjustments added up to some big changes to the feel and handling of this bike versus my 35 year old, long-time friend. This new, modern steed seems more power-efficient, quicker in its handling and equally stable. I seem to be slightly less affected by the wind (although that's still a BIG problem) and have greatly enjoyed the lower gearing especially when faced with some real hills in Texas and New York. When I ride it without rack, fenders and panniers it seems to fly. On our test ride last month, it felt stable and comfortable fully loaded. It seems the perfect Renaissance bike - great for all the types of riding I do.

Can't wait to get started on its big adventure - only a few days to go now.

If you're really, really geeky and into the minutia of bike design, you can check out the page entitled "Bike Specifications." If your head seems to spin with too many numbers and angles - don't bother. The ride's the same whether you understand the math or not.

STUFF

As the final day draws near, I'm pretty much done acquiring all the the last minute stuff I need. Now I'm trying to pair the whole rig down to 50 pounds or less.

Self-powered RV. Not exactly traveling light.

Don't think I could manage getting that around THE LAKE.

But it would solve the problem of where to sleep each night.

Carrying It All With You

My bike weighs 25 pounds with rack, fenders and two empty water bottles. That leaves me with under 25 pounds for everything else.  When we did a trial run in the middle of April I was hauling 55 pounds. Cutting out 5 pounds doesn't sound like much, but I thought I'd already paired the list to the bone and now I have to add a few things I'd forgotten, like a foldable spare tire, a lock and some wonderful Michigan bike maps. That'll mean leaving some "essential" things behind. 

Here's where I am at the moment in that agonizing trade-off.

My collected gear - unstuffed

Biking Clothes

Weather, weather, weather - someone once said "there's no such thing as bad weather, just insufficient clothing." How true and how vexing for the cycle tourist. Late spring in the upper mid-west, and particularly in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan can be wet (very wet) and cold (very cold, snow-like cold). Because we'll ride unless its dangerous, we need to be prepared to ride when its uncomfortable. Two shorts and two jerseys will do when I hand wash them each night.  But, I'll need to be prepared for the cold and the rain otherwise I'll face hyperthermia - a very real danger in this climate. So, here's my minimal list of bike clothing:

Bike Shorts (2)	Socks - wool (3)
NSC jersey (2)	Bike Tights
Rain Jacket & Pants	Buff
Technical long sleeve shirt	Smart wool undershirt
Bandana	Sweat band
Black wool sweater	Biking Gloves (short & long)
Ear band & fleece hat	Helmut, shoe & glove covers

Regular, Street Clothes

I don't expect to spend too much time in my non-bike clothes, so, unless I spill spaghetti sauce all over them, one set of street clothes should do. But, I'll indulge myself with a pair of pajamas and a swim suit. Hate sleeping in my clothes and REALLY need to be ready for a hot tub or a pool once in a while. (They're light anyway)

Pajamas	T-shirt
Travel underwear (2)	Sun shirt
Bras (2)	Technical Shorts (1)
Swimming suit	Long technical pants
Light walking shoes	Baseball Hat

Bike Equipment

Its all well and good to pair down the clothing, but that doesn't save a lot of weight. Making the right decision on what bike equipment to bring does. Here's where we do a little sharing; I'm lucky, Will is carrying the tools, I have the first aide and bike cleaning kits. 

Bike Shoes	Tube & folding tire
Helmut	Handle bar extension
Sport beans, electrolytes	First Aide Kit
Sun glasses	Maps
Lock	Waterproof handle bar bag
Bike Lights (front & rear)	Trunk bag & waterproof cover
Bike Cleaning & lube kit Electronic Equipment	Sun arm protectors

Now here's where we get into the REALLY heavy but truthfully non-essential stuff. Forty years ago when the Bicentennial riders set out across the country or thirty-five when I rode self-supported in Europe there was no such thing as cell phones, GPS navigation systems, iPads, lap tops or the rechargeable batteries that powered them all. Now, we can't conceive of getting lost or being out of touch. We want to stay connected via phone, texting, Facebook … or even blogging (who would do THAT?) Sure all this stuff has gotten incredibly light - my new Macbook weighs just 2 pounds - but its still heavier than an extra pair of socks. Yet, to me this trip would not be what I intend if I snuck off in secret, called home once a week, or navigated exclusively by paper map and cue sheet. So, I'm paying the price - hauling this stuff around, leaving some other things behind.

iPhone, cable & ear phones	Thumb drive
Camera & cable	Extra batteries for sensors & lights
Garmin & cable	Recharge battery & cable
Laptop & cable Heart rate monitor	Multi-charge plug

Miscellaneous Stuff

Just a few more things and we're done. My friend Diana showed me that light weight packing cubes made life on the road so much more manageable. With multiple cubes I can group like with like. and separate out the things I won't need on the road from those I might need to access with changing weather. Need the toothbrush and paste, the medicines, the sun screen and bug dope. Can't forget the ATM or AAA discount card. And this time I'll bring my swiss army knife with bottle opener. Nothing worse than getting a great brew and not being able to open it.

Zip lock bags (gallon, sandwich)	Journal, Pen
Regular glasses, case & cloth	Swiss Army knife
Packing cubes	Postcard stamps
Cash, ATM, Ins. AAA cards	Bath Kit
Trip cards	Sun Screen, bug dope
Sewing Kit	Water proof Panniers to put it all in

What Didn't Make the Cut

My daughter Elise asked, "So what's getting left behind?" That might be interesting. So far here's what I've discarded after my trial run:

Light bath robe	Bike pump
Flip flops	Blocks
Night light	Cliff bars
Clothes Shami	Tire irons
Capri pants

In the next day or two I'll weigh the whole lot and will probably find I need to pair it down even further. I'll pack all the stuff in those cubes and give you another look. Might need that self-powered RV after all.